Oct 25th 2006
Driveshafts are installed and carb was installed. I rewelded the bonnet trim strip, now the trim actually fits. I have become the expert at one man brake bleeding since my only helper (my daughter) left for Uni. Firstly Open a bleed nipple and run a bit of rubber hose from it into a can, fill up the resovoir and go to bed. The brake fluid works its way down eventually and it avoids the trouble I used to have getting the master to start pumping. Then I use a 6ft length of rubber hose,drape it around a bit then into the tin (OK by now you know I use coffee tins..) and put a light near it. From the drivers seat you can see the hose and any bubbles and as its so long that once the line is clear of bubbles you get plenty of time to get back and close the bleed valve. The only troublesome thing on my punchlist was the new tacho, it either nailed itself to zero or bounced around showing about 4 times the true rpm. I searched and searched the internet and found quite a few others with this problem but no-one seemed to have a solution. Some said to use a diode but this did not help me and apparently many others. it looked like there was some interference so in desperation I went back 35 years to my basic electronics traing at good old RAF Cosford and worked out a simple rc low pass filter, that should allow the true signal through and supress the higher frequency rubbish, IT worked!! I knew that Sgt Garritys shouting was worth it.. I ended up with a 10k resistor in series with the signal from the coil with a 0.1microfarad capacitor down to ground. Its smooth as silk now... I Did most of the things on my punch list and plan to drive it over to my mates houses and claim the case of beer they bet each other 10 years ago on who would finish their projects (a 1963 E-Type and a 1940 Ford pickup Hotrod) first. Of course they found a loophole, no antenna in the hole, No beer for me..
